AT/LT: Vermont's Long Trail

 A Saturated Land

The state of Vermont is nicknamed the Green Mountain State, and you understand this when you visit the state in the summer.  The mountains are spectacularly GREEN and home to numerous trails, including the 150.8 mile section of the Appalachian Trail, which drew us to hike here this summer.  In winter, when these mountains are covered in the powdery, white stuff,  many Green Mountain peaks are home to ski resorts ~ Mt. Stratton (pictured above), Okemo, Killington, Mt. Snow, to name a few.  The Green Mountains are burnished in gold and red in the Fall, inviting carloads of leaf peepers from New York and further south.  We have enjoyed Vermont in all its varied glory during our years in the northeast, and are grateful not just for its green countryside, green residents, and Senator Bernie Sanders (minus the rural folk, who parade their TRUMP NOW signs).  Happy cows, goats, and sheep produce rich cream and cheese, while farms produce bales of hay for the winter. 

Alas, this beautiful state with its rivers, reservoirs, and mountain valleys, took a beating in 2011 when Hurricane Irene, a slow moving tropical storm, dumped enough water to wash away homes and businesses.  The valleys turned into canals for water runoffs, and boulders the size of houses were pushed around.  While still in recovery mode, early July of this year, torrential rain that battered the northeast, had a particularly pounding effect on the already beat up Vermont.  8 inches of rain fell overnight causing rivers to run so high as to cover bridges, and farms and orchards having to give up on their crops.  Roads have been gouged out, rivers have changed course, and homes are inaccessible with rutted out driveways.  

Tourism dependent businesses have been particularly hard hit. We are doing our bit by supporting VT.  

Stratton Mountain: The Idea of a Long Trail

Vermont lays claim to the idea of the Appalachian Trail (AT) as having originated here on Stratton Mountain (Elev. 3936 feet).  James P. Taylor, sitting in his tent on Stratton Mountain in 1909, conceived the idea of a long trail running along the crest of the Green Mountains.  The actual work took many more hands! The Green Mountain Club maintains today's Long  Trail (LT), which runs 270 miles covering the entire length of Vermont to Canada.  Much like the Benton MacKaye Trail at AT's Southern terminus, the LT is a much hiked trail here.  During our 3 days of hiking various sections of the AT/LT here, we spoke to some hikers looking to do it in 3-4 weeks. 

Alas, and rightfully so, the GMC laments that the LT is over-used. Delicate alpine flora are becoming rare due to human activity along the AT/LT.  Especially in these current muddy conditions, we did our best trampling through mud rather than breaking new trail.   

Our first hike was up Stratton Mountain, a section where the AT and LT braid together.  25 miles from the southern border of Vermont, Stratton Mountain is the tallest peak in the southern Green Mountains.  The trail is popular for its spectacular views,  so we thought ourselves clever by avoiding the weekend crowds.  Without a second car to spot us, we had to descend the same way we ascend the mountain. 

We were prepared for muddy, buggy trails, and were just grateful that it was not pouring rain as it had the previous day.  We were sure hikers would hold off for the good weather forecast for the weekend.  Guidebooks also describe the Vermont section of the AT as a green tunnel.  The canopy of hardwoods and evergreens is thick and the trail seldom emerges from them for the astounding views in the summer. 

Thru-Hikers

Wet and iridescent Tulsi in her reflective vest.  This was to ensure that she did not startle hikers into thinking she was a black bear cub.   The caretaker, at Stratton Mountain, would later tell us that there were no black bears in the area, only moose. (I am still to spot one after 23 years in the Northeast, whereas moose were a daily occurrence during my Alaska days!).  

The trail was quiet, even though there were 4 cars in the parking area at the Stratton-Arlington Road.  We met our very first AT Trail Angel, who supports thru-hikers with rides, water, food. This bearded gentleman-angel, in his minivan, loaded with snacks, water, and even sleeping pads, was waiting for his brother.  Thru-hikers get off the trail every few days for showers, ration pickups, and sometimes a comfortable bed.    A young lady was taking down her tent, after a rainy night. She was on her way to the Canadian end, as was another Vermonter whose wife dropped him off after a colonoscopy the previous day!  He hoped to be in Canada in 4 weeks.  They were hiking the entire length of the Long Trail.  

There is a kinship in meeting, and admiration for folks who willing to give up the safety and comfort of home, head out into the wilderness, disconnect themselves from technology, and push themselves physically to be make a journey in such a primal way - on two feet, much like homo erectus did.  They were all so happy.  Big smiles. Great conversations.  Getting some dog love. 

The Summit

We sloughed our way up, climbing the 3.8 miles steadily up though lots of flowing streams, brooks, mud hopping over rocks, roots, and boardwalks.  Did I say, mud? At 3.8 miles we still hadn't reached the top - the summit was not to be found.  Had we missed a turn?  Thunder was rumbling through, rain beginning to fall.  Ramesh reminded us that a forest of trees was not the ideal place to be in a thunderstorm.  I reminded him that we had not seen lightning, only heard thunder, which meant that the lightning had already struck somewhere else, a mile away.  At 4.4 miles, we summitted, and saw the observation tower. 

The rain had stopped, but dense fog and clouds obscured our views.  The moist yet cool breeze was welcome.  The fire tower is 75 feet tall, to bring us up to 4000 feet.  We were above the tree line and imagined the distant Adirondack peaks of New York on the west, and the Manodnock Peak of New Hampshire to the north east, as we took in the 360 degree views. 

Only 4 people are allowed on top of the tower.  We learned from the caretaker that a 0.8 mile trail leads to the very top of the Stratton ski area. People pay to take the gondola, hike up to the top, and climb the tower.  It is a zoo, she said.  Today, the thunderstorm kept them away and we got to be there by ourselves.  We had a quick snack and began our descent through roots, bogs, and rocks, to the sounds of gurgling creeks and songbirds. After 9 miles, Tulsi was favoring a leg.  

Deer Leap, kids leap 

The Green Mountains were sacred lands to the original Vermonters, the Western Abenaki.  They met their physical needs by hunting and foraging in the forests, quarried the rocks to make tools,  and engaged with the creator atop crests and ridges in sacred rituals.  Stewarding the land, offering gratitude for that which is taken, and returning something back to the land was the way of the Abenaki.  The Green Mountains were also a place of refuge for them during conflicts and war times with the Dutch, French, and British, between the 17th and 19th centuries. 

These lands are now protected for all to use as National Forests, State Forests, and State Parks.  U.S. National Parks are beginning to post land acknowledgements, to educate visitors that the lands that are now open for all to enjoy were stewarded originally by indigenous tribes, who considered it sacred land.  Example from Acadia National Park. Many of their ancestors are buried there, as is important access to medicinal plants or resources for commerce and trade.  Even with Deb Haaland as the Cabinet Secretary for the Department of Interior advocating for them, federal lands that run through sacred tribal land remain a source of contention and distress for native peoples. 

This second hike of the week was to be exclusively on the AT with a 0.7 mile detour on Deer Leap Trail to the impressive sheer ledge overlooking Mt. Killington, Pico Peak, and New York's Adirondack mountains.  The trail took us through Gifford Woods State Park, home to towering hardwoods.  The giant fallen logs along the way, and the circumference of the white birch still standing are testimonies. 

We met our first thru-hiker of the day - a serious looking bearded chap (we figure, a shaving kit, is not among the 10 essentials!), heading south to Rutland, about 12 miles away.  A typical day is anywhere from 10 - 15 miles, so you can make it to the next campsite.  He passed us when I paused to tie my laces, and was gone in a flash.  They walk at a brisk pace, and their packs are a lot smaller than they used to be - keeping it to 30lbs or less. 

We admire the massive rock formations, moved about during the last ice age, some 12,000 YA, hear the song birds in the hardwood forest as we climb an aggressive climb of 1200 feet.  Today is Monday, and we are expecting to see few people.  Thunderstorms are forecast for late afternoon, and we expect to complete the 6 mile round trip by early afternoon.  The Deer Leap overlook, at 2770 feet,  however, is a local hotspot for day tripping Middlebury College students, families, and rock climbing day camp.  We were also not able to escape the sounds of whooshing traffic on Rt-100 below.  Upon a quick dash to the top, we had to navigate selfie-taking families, sunbathing youngsters, and can-I-pet-your-dog campers.  

We rushed away quickly after briefly enjoying the welcome cool breeze, and astounding views, and retreated to the quiet and calm on the AT.  We proceeded towards Rutland for another mile and returned the way we came.  Across the road from Gifford Woods SP was Kent Pond, in which you can imagine, someone found great joy and cool. 

Walking with Friends and Dogs, lots of water, and many Thru-hikers

Susan and Kevin, Vermonters by summer, recommended and joined us on their local favorite off Forest Road 10 near Mt. Tabor - Little Rock Pond.  The drive up FR10 reminded us of the FR in GA to reach the southern terminus of the AT.  The trees are huge, growing strong and tall, reaching for light, fed by streams powering down from Little Rock Pond. The AT/LT run alongside, wet, muddy, rocky, and rooty.  Susan said that she loved to swim in the pond when she got there. The water was truly inviting, and we did see both dogs and humans take cool dips.  I waded in among young salamanders and fry.  

With an elevation gain of only ~500 feet, it allowed us to walk and talk amongst ourselves, and with a number of thru-hikers.  At this point on the AT, we are about 500 miles from Mt. Katahdin, the northern terminus of the AT.  August is a gathering time for north-bound hikers, as they all come to the end of their 4+ months of hiking on The Trail.  They still have some of the hardest climbs left - The White Mountains of New Hampshire and Mt. Katahdin in Maine.  South-bound hikers prefer to get the difficult ones out of the way first, when they are still energetic.  We chatted with Big Angus, Egg Salad, and (pictured above,) Bucko.  Thru-hikers have an AT tag on their packs, and often gain a trail name - given to them by fellow hikers or by themselves.  We heard their stories of hardship (through the White Mountains), sympathized with the intensely wet weather, and celebrated the dry day we had. 

Ellie and Tulsi got along fairly well and companionably hiked and frolicked in the water.  They also checked out the Little Rock Pond shelter and platforms, where thru-hikers stop for the night. The AT has sections with no fresh water, but Vermont is not one of those, with its abundant streams and tarns. 

The 5.81 mile walk on the AT, including a loop around Little Rock Pond left us all blissfully one with nature, admiring the plants that are the Worshippers of the sun, and Roots overcome every obstacle from Dr. Maria Montessori's Botany impressionistic charts.  The botanical cycle of life was on display for us to marvel at, as was the geological cycle. 

 

Walking 3 sections of the AT/LT in Vermont, I am left wondering how we strike the balance between people enjoying wilderness and protecting it?  How do we restore land to the original stewards of the land? 

"Whether pedestrian[s] follow a sky line trail perpetually, or for variety, [seek] at times, the woodland roads among the foothills, [they are] ever at home, for this is [their] kind of a world. We must make it completely [their] own by elaborating trails and shelters throughout the whole region, so [they] will feel [themselves] perfectly welcome everywhere.”  ~ John P. Taylor, outlining his goals for the Long Trail in 1914.

Disclaimer:  All the ideas and sentences written above are mine alone, and are not AI generated.